John Steinbeck said, “Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.” And I have to agree with him. There are few other places in the world like it. From the moment you first catch sight of the sea views from Amalfi Drive, you will have to pinch yourself to make sure you are not merely in a dream. Everything you’ve heard and everything you’ve seen in photographs and movies cannot do the in-person experience justice. And the Amalfi Coast is just that – an experience in itself. Captivating and breathtaking. Truly unforgettable.
WHAT TO KNOW
Location
Positano is located on the Amalfi Coast in Campania, Italy. The town is built on the face of hill that rises up from the water’s edge.
Getting There
There are two ways to get to Positano – by land or by water after you arrive at the nearest airport which is in Naples. With Positano’s seaside location, there is only one road leading to the town for those wishing to arrive by land. For those who would rather arrive by water, there are several ferry options.
- By Train & Bus: For a great low-cost alternative to car rental or private transfer, take a bus shuttle from the airport. Check out Positano Shuttle which offers services to Positano from Naples (€35 each way) and Rome Fiumicino or Rome Ciampino (€180 each way). The bus will take you directly to your destination (or close to depending on where you are staying). From Sorrento, the SITA bus departs twice-hourly from the front of the Sorrento train station to Positano, continuing on to Amalfi.
- By Ferry: If you prefer to arrive by water, there are ferry services that run during certain times of the year. In the summer months (usually April to October), connections by hydrofoil and ferry depart from the Molo Beverello in Naples. From Naples, connect in Sorrento to get to Positano. Check Alilauro for timetables and schedules.
- By Rental Car: If you are brave enough to conquer the Amalfi Coast Drive, then by all means rent a car and head down the narrow two-lane road. The drive is beautiful but it is often said that amateur drivers should not attempt the drive as there are several twists and turns and one small mistake could send your car off the cliff and plummeting into the sea. Also, during high season the tourist buses take over the roads and if you get stuck behind one, it can take forever to get to Positano.
Helpful Tip
Be sure to make a reservation at a car park in advance as it can be very difficult to find parking, especially during high season. Also, in the main town of Positano, walking is the only way to get around. Cars remain parked on the main road where the pedestrian path begins and leads down to the main beach.
Weather
The best time to visit is in May when the temperatures are mild. July and August are the hottest months of the year.
Currency
In Italy, as in most of Western European countries, the official currency is the Euro (€). The Euro is divided into 100 cents (centimes, centesimi) with two decimals after the comma. So, a price will often be displayed as €11,00 (eleven euros); or €1,34 (one euro and 34 cents), etc.
Visas
Italy (along with Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Portugal and Spain) forms part of the border-free travel zone known as the Schengen Area comprising 26 countries in total. US, Australian, Canadian, Japanese, and New Zealand citizens are among those who may enter Italy as tourists without a visa and stay up to 90 days. EU passport holders can come and go as they please.
Public Holidays
New Year’s Day – January 1
Epiphany – January 6
Easter Sunday & Easter Monday – date varies from late March through April
Liberation Day – April 25
Labor Day – May 1
Republic Day – June 2
Ferragosto – August 15
All Saints’ Day – November 1
Immaculate Conception – December 8
Christmas Day – December 25
Saint Stephan’s Day – December 26
WHERE TO STAY
There are hotels in town, outside of town, on the hill, up the hill, around the bend. You get the picture. Positano hotels tend to be on the pricier side due to its impeccable coastal location and picturesque views. Here are my top picks for hotels.
- Hotel Covo dei Saraceni: This is by far my favorite. It is on the more expensive side but I can honestly say it is worth it. The Covo is located right next to Spiaggia Grande making it an ideal location for exploring all that Positano has to offer. Read my review here. Via Regina Giovanna, 5, 84017 Positano; +39 089 875400; covodeisaraceni.it
- Le Sirenuse: Probably one of the most famous hotels on the Amalfi Coast, Le Sirenuse is a family run, luxury boutique hotel located in the heart of Positano. It has a Michelin star restaurant, a pool surrounded by lemon trees overlooking the ocean, a Champagne & Oyster Bar and full-service spa. Via Cristoforo Colombo, 30, 84017 Positano; +39 089 875066; sirenuse.it
- Hotel Poseidon: Located in the heart of Positano, this intimate hotel creates a family-like atmosphere with panoramic views of Positano bay. I love the Wellness Center which is equipped with a Turkish bath and solar shower. Via Pasitea, 148, 84017 Positano; +39 089 81 11 11; hotelposeidonpositano.it
- Hotel Buca di Bacco: Situated on the Spiaggia Grande (the main beach) in Positano, with the magnificent dome of the Chiesa Madre as a backdrop and beautiful sea views, the Buca di Bacco Hotel is in the perfect position for an idyllic stay in Positano. Via Rampa Teglia, 4, 84017 Positano; +39 089 875699
- Hotel Villa Franca: This is a more reasonably priced hotel compared to the others on this list. It is a rather small hotel with exceptional service and incredible views of Positano. It is located further up the hill but just a short walk down the hill and you are in town. Viale Pasitea 318, 84017 Positano; +39 089 875655; villafrancahotel.it
WHERE TO EAT
With its seaside location, Positano offers some incredibly fresh seafood. There are several restaurants along the beachfront that offer a lively scene. If you are looking for breathtaking views of Positano, you will need to head up the hill a bit. Here are my favorite restaurants.
- Chez Black: One of my favorite restaurants in Positano. Come for lunch or dinner – either will not disappoint with great food and entertaining people-watching given the beachfront location. Opt for a fish dish like the soupa di mare or the spaghetti ai frutti di mare. Via del Brigantino, 19, Positano; +39 089 875 036; chezblack.it
- Ristorante Buca di Bacco: Located on main beach just down the road from Chez Black, the restaurant inside Hotel Buca di Bacco is a great choice for a lively dining experience. Serving regional Mediterranean cuisine, don’t miss their famous dish spaghetti with wild clams. The restaurant also has a cooking school which is a great way to bring home some of their amazing recipes. Via Rampa Teglia, 4, 84017 Positano; +39 089 875699; bucadibacco.it/restaurant
- da Gabrisa: Located in Hotel Villa Gabrisa up the hill from the water edge, this restaurant offers impeccable views. This restaurant makes sure to cater to diners with special dietary needs – offering several vegetarian options and even gluten-free pasta. Via Pasitea, 221, 84017 Positano; +39 089 811498; villagabrisa.it
- La Tagliata: Set up the hill offering beautiful views of the sea, this is one the most popular restaurants in Positano. The restaurant is built on three terraces, two of which are used for private events, and the third is the dining area where both indoor and outdoor seating is available. I’d suggest an outdoor table where you can dine next to a vegetable garden while overlooking all of Positano. Via Tagliata, 22, 84017 Positano; +39 089 875872; latagliata.com
- Da Adolfo: Arrive by water via a small boat that picks up passengers as Positano pier. This is a casual and fun dining experience where you can take your time eating local Italian fare while dining on the sea. Via Laurito, 40, 84017 Positano; +39 089 875022; daadolfo.com
- La Conca del Sogno: My most memorable dining experience in all of Italy. The food at this family-owned restaurant is incredible. Instead of ordering off a menu, leave it up the chef. Don’t forget to order the white peach sangria – it is incredible. Ask your hotel concierge to arrange a boat to take you to the waterfront restaurant where the boat fee will be complimentary if you order a full meal. Via Marciano, 9, 80061 Massa Lubrense; + 39 081 808 103; concadelsogno.it
WHAT TO DO
When you’ve soaked up enough sun either poolside or at Spiaggia Grande, here are several things to do around Positano.
- Sentiero degli Dei: Considered to be one of the most beautiful walks in the world Sentiero degli Dei, or “the Path of Gods,” is a stunning coastal walk starting in the village of Bomerano. The walk is set high up in the mountains with views stretching from the island of Capri to the other end of the coast, Cilento. The entire journey takes about 4.5 hours but if you don’t want to do the entire path, you can cut it short by ending in Nocello where you can return by bus to Positano. Click here for more information.
- Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta: Located right in the center of Positano, the Church of Santa Maria Assunta with its giant, colourful dome of Vietri maiolica tiles make it a sight hard to miss. Inside the church is a Byzantine inspired Icon of a black Madonna, dating back to the 18th century. If you are in Positano over the weekend, you are likely to see a wedding taking place here.
- Spiaggia del Fornillo: If you’ve had enough with the crowds at the main beach – Spiaggia Grande – then head to Spiaggia del Fornillo. It is just a 10-minute walk away from main beach. From the right-hand edge of the beach, head up the path where you will pass the Covo dei Saraceni. Continue along Via dei Positanesi where you will pass Lo Guarracino restaurant. Continue walking and you will soon arrive at Spiaggia del Fornillo, a narrow beach in front of the Hotel Ristorante Pupetto.
- Ravello: This cliff top town set some 350 meters above the sea offers stunning views of the Amalfi Coast. When you arrive in the town’s main square, you will see one of Ravello’s main attractions The Duomo (admission €3; chiesaravello.com) which was built in 1087 on the central piazza del Vescovado. Be sure to take a tour of Villa Rufolo (admission €5; villarufolo.it)which is located on the same piazza as The Duomo. For lunch, head to Albergo Ristorante Garden (Via Boccaccio, 4 84010 Ravello, Italy; +39 089 857226; lnx.gardenravello.com) where you can dine while overlooking the sea below either on the terrace of in glass-walled dining room. Before returning to Positano, take a tour of the gardens at Villa Cimbrone (admission €7; villacimbrone.com).
- Cruise the Coast: Hire a boat for the day and cruise the along the coast. The views from the water are incredible. Take the boat along the coast to Amalfi, Sorrento and Vietri del Mare. Dock and get out and explore around. Have the boat driver take you to one of the many popular inlets where you can go swimming and jump off the rocks. Ready for lunch? Have the boat bring you to La Conca del Sogno (Via Marciano, 9, 80061 Massa Lubrense; + 39 081 808 103; concadelsogno.it). This family-owned restaurant is one of the most memorable meals I’ve had in all of Italy. Instead of ordering off the menu, allow the owners to just bring you their suggestions. Be sure to have the white sangria filled with fresh peaches.
Helpful Tip
Pass on a visit to Grotta dello Smeraldo (Emerald Grotto). While the bright green and turquoise water is pretty, pictures don’t come out very well and the cave itself is filled with so many other boats and tourists that it really isn’t all that fun. Your time is better spent elsewhere.
Bars & Nightlife
Positano is no Ibiza but it does have a small nightlife. Mostly restaurants with a lively bar scene but there are a few dance clubs that are well-worth a visit.
- Music on the Rocks: Located right on the beach and built inside the rocks (hence the name), this is Positano’s main nightlife. Locals and tourists both frequent here. The drinks are somewhat pricey but the music is fun and the crowd is young and well-dressed. Via Grotte dell’incanto 51, Positano, Italy; +39 089 875 874; musicontherocks.it
- L’Africana: Just outside Positano in Praiano is the Amalfi Coast’s most famous nightclub Africana built inside a natural cave, almost at sea level. Africana first opened in 1962 and finally returned in Summer 2011 after extensive renovation. Come here to dance until the early hours of the morning. Via Terra e Mare, Praiano; +39 089 874081; africanafamousclub.com
- La Zagara Piano Bar: Offering a vast repertoire of music that ranges from large pieces of neomelodica (a music style originating in Naples), including songs from international caliber, to the more modern and danceable disco music in the latter part of the evening. Via dei Mulini,8/10, 84017 Positano, Italy; +39 0898 75964; lazagara.com
- Next 2: This Michelin star restaurant has a wine bar with a beautiful terrace. Famous for its minimalist-chic interiors and super-cool lounge and jazz music, Next 2 stays open until the early hours in the summer months. Viale Pasitea 242, Positano; +39 089 8123516; next2.it
Really nice guide of Positano! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for reading Jay!
Hi Krista
Great information!! Do you have a particular boat that you recommend that cruises the coast?!